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Korda Kamo Sinking Rig Tube

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Not only does rig tubing stop the hooklink from wrapping around the mainline on the cast preventing a tangle but it also stops the fish coming in contact with the line during the fight.
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Only 22 left
Product Name Qty
Korda Kamo Sinking Rig Tube - Gravel 2
Korda Kamo Sinking Rig Tube - Silt 10
Korda Kamo Sinking Rig Tube - Clay 3
Korda Kamo Sinking Rig Tube - Weedy Green 7
Product Name Price Qty
Korda Kamo Sinking Rig Tube - Gravel
Korda Kamo Sinking Rig Tube - Silt
Korda Kamo Sinking Rig Tube - Clay
Korda Kamo Sinking Rig Tube - Weedy Green



Not only does rig tubing stop the hooklink from wrapping around the mainline on the cast preventing a tangle but it also stops the fish coming in contact with the line during the fight. This is a vital safety aspect of the rig which we feel should not be ignored, Danny has actually seen a carp roll on the line as it was being played and watched as scales fluttered down to the lake bed, when the carp was landed it had several white marks where scales used to be, this was from a method feeder where no tubing was required because the hooklink was squashed inside the method ball so it could not tangle, but for the sake of having some tubing on which if you use it right does not have to spook the carp you will ensure the fish stay as perfect as the moment they made the mistake of wanting your hookbait! Our tubing has a matt finish which makes it harder to see underwater and most importantly easy to thread. It comes in three colours all of which sink without the need for putty, having said that we have seen from the underwater footage that the better the rig is pinned to the lake bed the less scared the carp will be. It is also better to get the colour of the tube exactly right for the spot you are fishing and then weight it with extra putty than use a tungsten impregnated tube which will sink quick but cannot be made in a good enough colour to match the lake bed, it catches anglers not fish. Our underwater experience tells us our colours are right and extra putty can only enhance the whole set up but is not as essential as getting the colour right. CAMOUFLAGED WEEDY GREEN - suits silk weed on the bottom and the vast majority of lake bed where a small amount of bottom weed/algae is present. Check out Part 2 of the Underwater Films to see just how much weed can be out there when you would never know it. MUDDY BROWN - perfect for silty waters (nothing is totally black not even silt) and gravel pits where there is a lot of sediment collected, even on the gravel spots. Danny recalls 'I started fishing the wonderful Savay Lake on a winter day ticket many years ago. It was superb to be feeling the lead/marker pulling over all that gravel, up the sides of bars and through silty gullies, real text book stuff! After some plumbing I tried pulling the float and lead through the margins which looked like they had a shallow layer or silt on top of gravel. The feeling matched what I had felt on the tops of the bars, really profound tremors as the lead bounced over the gravel yet the lead was out of sight under the silt, I could not see it under the rod tip in a foot of water'. So, never assume just because you can feel gravel that there is not a layer of sediment on top of it. Check what it's like in the edge before deciding on whats out there. KHAKI - very light green and excellent on clean gravel bottoms, perfect for gravel pits. This one can be excellent in one part of the swim and looking like a laser beam in another, on clean gravel it's great over silt or weed it stands out like a sore thumb. It sounds like a lot of messing about but matching your rig to the colour of the lake bed it will be lying on will get you more bites. Part 3 of the Underwater series is out in December and will show you fist hand what we mean. TUBING TIPS Always cut the line to a point and straighten it out first before trying to thread it down the tube, curly line with a flattened end is almost impossible to thread! Our tube comes in large packets so the coils are kept as big as possible, it is also very supple so it straightens straight out of the packet, and in winter it may be necessary to warm it through your fingers to straighten it out before threading. If you take tubing off and intent to reuse it then slide it up and down a tight line to get the silt etc out of the middle, it is dry gunk up inside the tube which makes it so hard to thread a second time. You can leave line inside it and use it to pull a new bit through next time by simply tying an overhand knot around the new line and carefully pulling through. If you are pushing the tube into the top of a rubber then cut it to a point before threading, the pointed tube pushed much easier into the rubber, never glue the join it makes it brittle which will then snap after repeated use. When your tube has finally come to the end of its life cut it up into inch lengths put it in your tackle box and use it for hair stops, that's what I do. 2 meter pack .75mm bore

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